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Home / Design library / Wardrobes and closets

Design reference · wardrobes

Walk-in closets: twelve views, and the four numbers that decide them

Hanging height, aisle width, island footprint and drawer pull-out. Get those four right and a closet feels generous at 6 m²; get them wrong and it feels cramped at 12. Every view here comes from a commissioned drawing set, with the dimension logic written underneath.

Twelve views selected from commissioned villa and house packages drawn by our own design desk. Renders, not photographs — the note below explains why that distinction matters.

Read this first

A note before you copy anything

These are renders from commissioned design packages, not photographs of installed closets. The difference matters most in a wardrobe, because a render will happily show a 1,200 mm aisle that the moment you stand in it with both doors open becomes 700 mm. We publish the drawings because they document dimension decisions cleanly, and we keep photographed installations in a separate completed-projects section.

Two things in these views are almost never what a client ends up building: the depth of open shelving and the size of a dressing island. Both look better in a render than they perform in daily use, and both get reset in the first drawing review. Where that happened on this set, we say so under the image.

From the drawings

Twelve views, from open systems to full glass

The set is ordered from the most open configuration to the most closed, which is roughly the order a client changes their mind in. Most people start wanting glass and end up asking for a mix once they see the dust argument drawn to scale.

Walk-in closet with floor-to-ceiling glass-fronted wardrobes, bronze metal frames and warm LED lighting inside
Glass front. Full-height glass doors with a slim metal frame. Glass is the most expensive way to close a wardrobe and the least forgiving: every interior shelf becomes a displayed object, so the interior has to be designed as carefully as the front.
U-shaped walk-in closet in cream with an upholstered ottoman in the centre and chandelier above
U-shape. Three runs on a U. This is the most storage-efficient plan there is, on one condition — the open end has to be at least 900 mm, or the third run becomes a wall you walk past rather than use.
Walk-in closet with a window, a bench seat below it and glass-fronted tall units either side
Window bench. A window in a closet sounds like a bonus and is usually a constraint: the bench below it kills 500 mm of hanging, and the tall units either side have to stop short of the reveal. Worth it, but plan for it.
Open wardrobe with hanging rails, drawers below and warm integrated LED strip lighting under the shelves
Open system. The cheapest configuration and the one people under-rate. Below the hanging you get four drawer boxes at 200 mm each; a closed wardrobe would have given you the same volume with a door you have to open first.
Dressing corridor in dark timber with lit hanging rails, a full-height mirror and a marble floor
Dressing corridor. A corridor closet in dark veneer. At 600 mm depth hanging has to run end-on, which costs about 30–35% of the capacity of a side-on run — the trade you make for fitting a closet into circulation space.
Closet with a glass-fronted display cabinet on one side and full-height timber doors with long handles on the other
Display cabinet. A glass display bay beside solid doors. Best of both: the things worth seeing are lit and visible, the rest is dust-free. Put the display bay where you do not walk past it in a dressing gown.
Dressing area with a recessed niche containing a dark desk shelf, a chair and timber panels around it
Dressing niche. A 900 mm niche for a vanity or a writing desk, framed by panels. If you want a mirror above a dressing table, plan the depth first: a 100 mm mirror plus a 350 mm working depth needs 450 mm and a niche shallower than that ends up with the mirror on the wall behind you.
Walk-in closet with a dark island dresser in the middle, glass display cases either side and a marble floor
Dresser island. A dresser island in a large room. An island needs 900 mm clear on all four sides to be usable, which means a room under 3.6 m wide cannot take one without eating the aisle on one side.
Dressing room with a dressing table and mirror, a sink counter, tall timber wardrobe doors and warm lighting
Dressing table. Dressing table and a small sink in the same run. The sink addition is the reason this closet needed a wet-zone carcass — same board, different seal, and a plinth that survives being mopped.
Two-level master closet with a glass and timber wardrobe wall and a staircase passing through the space
Two-level closet. A closet with a stair passing through it. This is the one configuration where we fix the hole in the drawing department before anything else: the cabinet run has to be set out from the stair void, not from the wall, or the last tall unit will not close.
Large master closet with glass-fronted wardrobes on three sides, a marble floor and a centre island
Master closet. Glass on three sides, island in the middle. With this much glass the interior lighting stops being a detail: it runs on a sensor and on a separate switch, because a closet lit only when the room is lit looks like a display nobody visits.
Walk-in closet in amber timber with open hanging, a bench with handbags and backlit shelving
Warm palette. A warmer palette — amber veneer, backlit shelving, a bench against the end wall. The bench is the cheapest upgrade in any walk-in: it gives you somewhere to sit that is not the edge of a drawer box.

Design decisions

The four numbers, and then the ones nobody asks about

Hanging height: 1,050 mm for shirts, 1,650 mm for dresses

A single-rod closet at 1,050 mm from the rod to the shelf below takes shirts and jackets. Long garments need 1,650 mm, and a full-length gown needs closer to 1,900 mm. In a 2,400 mm closet the usual answer is a stacked rod: long hanging on one half, double hanging on the other, and the split decided by an actual count of what the client owns rather than by a tidy drawing.

The rod itself sits 40–60 mm below the shelf above it, and the shelf is what carries the load. We rate the rod at 15 lb per linear foot and the shelf at 65 lb per linear foot, which is comfortable for normal use and is the number to check if someone wants a full run of winter coats.

Aisle width: 900 mm minimum, 1,100 mm if two people share it

900 mm is the number that lets one person stand square and open a drawer behind them. Below that, a drawer box in a full-extension runner has nowhere to go, and a full-extension runner is exactly what we fit — at 35–45 kg per pair, they need the whole travel.

A two-person closet wants 1,100 mm. Walk-in plans in design packages are routinely drawn at 1,200 mm and then lose 150 mm to skirting and door frames on site, so measure the finished opening, not the structural one.

Island footprint: 900 mm clear on all four sides

An island is a luxury of space, not a storage solution. At 900 mm clear on four sides, the smallest sensible island is about 800 × 1,200 mm, and that only fits in a room 3.6 m wide or more. Put one in a smaller room and you have bought a bench with drawers that blocks the run behind it.

Where an island is on the edge, we usually propose a 400 mm-deep peninsula off the end wall instead. Same sitting surface, no aisle lost.

Drawer pull-out: full extension, and the wall behind it

A 500 mm drawer box on a full-extension runner needs 500 mm of clear floor plus your own standing space — call it 1,100 mm total from the cabinet face. This is the number that kills most ambitious closet layouts, because it has to be checked against the opposite run, not against the room.

We fit full-extension runners throughout, so there is no version of a closet we build where a drawer only comes out two-thirds of the way. If the geometry does not allow full pull-out, we change the geometry rather than the runner.

The ones nobody asks about: system holes, back panel and ventilation

Shelves land on a 32 mm-pitch system with 5 mm holes at a 37 mm setback. That pitch is the reason a shelf can be moved a year later without redrilling, and the reason a client who wants to add a drawer box in year three can actually do it.

The back panel is 9 mm of the same board as the carcass, not a thin hardboard. In a closet that matters twice: it takes the fixing for anything wall-mounted inside, and it stops the whole run racking when the doors are all open at once. And leave a ventilation gap at the top of a closed run — a wardrobe full of clothes in a sealed box in a humid climate is a mould experiment.

900 mmminimum aisle
1,050 mmshirt hanging
32 mmsystem hole pitch
65 lb/ftshelf rating

Spec basis

Wardrobe specification, as built

Carcass18 mm E0-grade plywood, ENF on request
Back panel9 mm, same board as the carcass
Edge banding2 mm PVB hot-melt on every cut edge
System holes32 mm pitch, 5 mm diameter, 37 mm setback
Shelf load65 lb per linear foot
Hanging rod load15 lb per linear foot
HingesBlum soft-close, 50,000 cycles
Drawer runnersFull-extension, 35–45 kg per pair
Standard height72 in (full-height to ceiling on request)
Standard depth24 in; 14 in for shallow and corridor runs
Lead time12–16 days production, then 15–40 days transit
TermsDuty-paid, quoted per linear foot against your final drawing

Mirrors, interior lighting and the dressing-table chairs in the renders are supplied locally by most clients. Cabinet work, hardware and system drilling are ours.

The shoe fittings in these drawings - rotating towers, slanted shelves and pull-out drawers - are compared side by side in the walk-in closet shoe storage guide.

White wardrobe system in our partner's showroom with LED strips in the uprights, a ceiling cove wash and a care drawer with glowing rings
The system these drawings come from, photographed in our partner's showroom rather than rendered - upright strips, cove wash and the care station all live.

The lighting layers in this system - cove wash, upright strips and the care-station task light - are set out bay by bay in our closet lighting guide.

FAQ

Wardrobe and closet questions we get most

How deep should a walk-in closet be?
2,000 mm is the comfortable minimum for a single-sided run: 600 mm of wardrobe plus 900 mm of aisle plus tolerance. For runs on both sides you need 2,400 mm, and for an island 3,600 mm. Below 2,000 mm, a 600 mm reach-in with doors is usually the better answer and costs less than forcing a walk-in.
Do I need 24 in or 14 in deep wardrobes?
24 in for anything you walk into, because hanging has to sit side-on. 14 in is for shallow runs and corridors where hanging goes end-on or where you only need shelves and drawers. Mixing the two in one closet is normal: deep at the back, shallow on the return.
Can the wardrobe go full height to the ceiling?
Yes, and we recommend it — it removes the dust shelf and adds roughly 20% usable volume. The catch is that ceiling height varies across a room, so we measure at three points and scribe the top panel on site. Expect full-height runs to need a slightly longer install day.
What is the 32 mm system hole for?
It is the standard pitch for adjustable shelving: 5 mm holes at a 37 mm setback, spaced 32 mm apart. It means shelves and internal fittings can be repositioned years later without redrilling the panel, and it is why a wardrobe can be re-planned after a move instead of replaced.
Is glass fronting worth the extra cost?
If the interior is designed to be looked at, yes. Glass is the most expensive way to close a wardrobe, it shows dust and it makes every shelf a display decision. Most clients end up with a mix: glass on the bay they care about, solid doors or open hanging for everything else.
Do you supply the interior lighting?
Not as standard — we prepare for it. Our panels are drilled and routed for LED strip under shelves and inside glass bays, and we leave the cable route and the switch position in the drawing. The lighting hardware is usually bought locally because it is a warranty item in most markets, and sourcing it locally keeps the replacement path short.

Send the closet plan, or just the room dimensions

Room width, ceiling height and what has to hang long — that is enough to tell you whether the plan you have in mind actually fits, and what we would change before anything is ordered.